Another Canvas Problem...

Got the sagging canvas problem fixed and now I'm having something major happen...

The wood frame that supports the stretched leaving marks on my to enlarge the pics and you can see them better...anyone else ever had this problem? And how do I fix looks awful....thanks!


  • Did you paint on it yet? If not, maybe when you paint on it, the paint will cover the lines. Sorry to see that, Savvie.
  • What a day???? What next?

    Sue...this is the painting I've been working on...."Paradise Cocktail" ....this didn't show up until I painted on it today...the paint is thicker because I went over the sky again...

    Kingston...I bought this at an art store.... portrait triple primed Fredrix is a wrap around and stapled on the think its too loose?
  • I do have the wooden peg things...but have never used them...ya think its too late to put them in now? I like Utretch products but have been trying to use up all my old canvas's first...but recently bought 6 linen canvas...I've underpainted but not used them yet...I'll keep that in mind for future...thanks for your help...appreciate!

  • If the "keys" don't get it tight enough, here's what I do. A large piece of cardstock or poster-board cut to size and slipped between the canvas and stretchers on the back.

    The other thing you can try is to dampen the back of the canvas. NOT WET, but take a damp rag/sponge and dampen the fibers. Then take a blow dryer and dry the canvas until thoroughly dry. This will also work for getting out "dings" when you lean your canvas up and something touches canvas and creates a depression.

    I'm really surprised that a store-bought canvas would do that. I've had it happen with ones I've stretched, but never with one from the store.

    It's really frustrating and I'm sorry it happened.
  • Have not sampled Fredrix canvas in years. They used to make, probably still do, a primed linen. It was horrible crap compared to Claessens.
  • The problem is the sharp edge of the stretcher bar ( inner edge ), what you really need to do is 'round off' that edge - say a 1/4 inch radius.

    If you get around to assembling your own, always round off the inner edge. Used to get the same problem myself until I started to do that.
  • Mark...well, I won't be buying Fredrix anymore...I know its probably "crap"...but the canvas's I've been using lately are ones I had before I ever heard of DMP and you...and wanted to use them up......however...I'm not so sure its a good idea!

    I've learned my lesson....something like:

    Inferior products produce inferior results...go for the Best!

    Chiaroscuro: thank you much for your input...if all else fails...this is a good idea!
  • I use 1/8 inch masonite board up to 16x20. Some people go a bit higher. Too high in size and it will warp when primed. It is so smooth and wonderful to work with, I love it! I coat it with Prima white primer a few times using a roller and allow it to dry in between coats.
  • Savannah,
    The best thing to do is re-stretch the canvas provided you have the tools. Those marks on the front of the canvas come from not being stretched tight enough.
  • Have not sampled Fredrix canvas in years. They used to make, probably still do, a primed linen. It was horrible crap compared to Claessens.

    This is good to know considering I have been saving one of these to paint on. I have been painting on canvas and have yet to paint on linen. I guess the Fredrix will not be good to judge by. I will get the Claussens but for now the cheapies are adequate for my level of painting.

    I wonder, you say you are using up old canvases. Did you store them laying down or on edge?

  • Melissa...thank you for advise on the masonite....I've tried to paint on smooth board but prefer a little "tooth" when I paint..guess that is what I learned on...but appreciate your input..

    Danny: this canvas appears taunt and tight....but wraps around to the back of the frame...wonder if this has something to do with it...versus stapling on the sides?? Anyway..if all else fails..and I like the painting when I'm finished...good to know I can restretch it ...thanks

    Newb: I stored the canvas's on edge...
  • Savannah, The stretcher you have must not have the lip on the face that prevents that canvas touching and causing that line a couple of inches away from the edge, or the canvas was applied to the wrong side of the stretcher. Many homemade stretchers/strainers often don't have that lip which pushes the canvas away from the face of the stretcher a fraction of an inch. The DIYers often omit this important detail because it's not easy to machine the molding in that shape, however, it can be accomplished by buying the smallest quarter-round molding or shoe molding you can find and then attaching it all around to the face of your stretcher with glue and brads.

    The first photo shows a cross-section of the stretcher molding with a very large lip on it's face (left-hand side) and it appears to be a top quality stretcher, the second has a much more typical lip found on less expensive stretchers, and the third shows one made with a lip on both sides so it's impossible to put the canvas on the wrong side.
  • Thanks Charlie B....this is very informative info...never paid much attention to the bars before...but will do so from now on...
  • A number of years ago I saw a video with John Stobart and he showed how he stretched. He took a small hand plane and removed some of the inner edge of the stretcher bar until there was a good angle of drop off from the outer edge which is the stretching point. That has eliminated any issue of the dreaded line from the canvas touching the inner edge. Some bars are made in such a way that you cannot stretch tight enough to remove this line and it may get covered with paint but it effects the all the same. Always remove some of the inner edge and you will never have the problem. :)
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