Is life size ref print doable with Oly omd-em10 mkll ?

Is 16 mgpxl enough to get a life size ref photo for full length portrait? Would 24-50mm lens or 50-150 lens make a difference,  
(I think I remember it being recommended)..
I've read through all comments, watched the 3hr video, and read through the photo guide. I could do it as recommended but it just doesn't seem like 16 mpx is enough firepower.
Since David recommended this camera it seems like it might be possible
.I'm wondering if the lenses play a role? Or maybe I missed a little something important.
Rather than tile print at this point (if the res is there)  I would take to service bureau for full size print. 


  • Is there a way to sticky @dencal's post? Information like this is priceless. @flatty?
  • Boudicca

    The link in my post has the table on a website that you can save or just bookmark my post.

  • Hi @dencal, thanks. I was thinking more for people new to the forum looking for this kind of info. It could be stickied to the top of the photography and printmaking section.
  • chart is fabulous!
    Thanks for all help.
  • BOB73BOB73 -
    edited August 2017
    @Dencal, You said: "A better suggestion is to use to use your camera on a tripod and take multiple mosaic shots of the subject. This will maximize your pixel density at life size."
    My question is how do I take mosaic shots? If I have an object like a man and woman on a couch and a 12 mp camera how many mosaics shots would I take to make a 16x20 photo in300ppi to make a 24X38inch canvas? Part of my past failures is working from small photos (one of the few failure reasons I figured out for myself before finding DMP.)
  • dencaldencal -
    edited August 2017

    Here is a tutorial link on panorama photography and photo stitching. This covers the principles of the technique.

    In essence you are dividing the view of your 'man and woman on a couch' into a grid of photo spaces and moving the camera view to take a shot of each square with good overlap on each.

    This calculator suggests your pixel goal is 82 megapixels for the size print you want.
    So 82 divided by 16 (your camera) is about 5 shots, call it six to get an even 3 by 2 coverage.
    To allow for a 20% overlap I would estimate 4 by 3, or 12 photos

    I would print the stitched photo at canvas size, that is 24 x 38 by means of using ten A4 size prints and feather them together manually with tape.

    This is quite a bit of effort but worthwhile. This method pulls a huge resolution improvement out of a modest camera and then pulls a huge resolution improvement out of a modest printer.


  • I play around with panoramic photography a bit, and have a commercial and a couple of home-made panoramic tripod heads. For landscapes where the subject is in the distance you can get away with a standard tripod, but if you have foreground or if the subject is close like a portrait then without a pano head (designed so that the camera rotates around the centre or 'nodal' point of the lens) then stitching will most likely look pretty untidy, with seams that don't line up. This may or may not matter depending on how the drawing is transfered to the canvas, in which case you could compensate for the errors during the drawing, then use the hi res photo mainly for assessing values/colour. But if you also want a stitched photo with minimal errors then a specialist pano head is the way to go, e.g. Denis's link above has good advice on the camera settings required to ensure consistent colour and contrast across images.

    Also check out the amazing work of Max Lyons, who also has extensive technical documentation on panoramic photography.
  • Thanks @dencal and @Roxy. My head is swimming and my brain is drowning in new information. The basic info I get from this is I need a tripod and have to move the camera. I think I can rig a plywood platform with a long board attached to anchor to the floor under the focal point then with the tripod standing on the plywood base shoot  and move along the arc at 4 equidistant points three times with the camera at different heights for each pass? THat would give me 12 prints that I can stitch together with little loss in perspective between each Right?
  • BOB73

    Pano photography is complicated to describe but pretty easy to do.

    Some photographers do all their pano shots hand held. I suggest you have a couple of practice runs this way to see if it meets your expectations.


  • @BOB73 - For panoramic photography the camera does not move left or right - it should just pivot around a fixed point. There is lots of complicated guff out there on the theory, but as Denis says you can get good results just hand held with no special equipment. The trick is to imagine a line running vertically through somewhere near the middle of the camera lens and down to the ground, and then as you sweep around, just try and rotate the camera around that imaginary line, without moving it in any other direction. When I do it manually I try and balance the lens on the tip of my finger, and then use that as a pivot point for shooting up-down or left-right. This image ( 1 TM.jpg) was done using that method - about a dozen separate photos I think, in two rows. For stitching images together I use a program called PTGui, but there are lots of options out there such as Photoshop. You can also use the panorama function on your phone which does all the processing for you! 

    But @movealonghome makes a good point - all of that might be overkill given the good quality of digital images and cameras today, and a couple of high quality standard prints might be all you need. In any case, if you are indoors or the light is low you will likely need a tripod or other support.
  • Thank you all for the extra effort. I am grateful for the help. I think it's all beginning to click in.
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