Frames

billjbillj -
edited May 2015 in Studio & Supplies
I thought I would get frames for my work for a better presentation. When I got the price, I slipped into a comma. So I made a couple of frames. Its a simple design but I think they look pretty good.
I used common boards from Home Depot. The wider boards are 1x3, the smaller are 2x2 Two 16x 20 frames cost me about $5. Wood frames cost ten times that. Heres the designs I made.



altair23[Deleted User]SummerMaurice

Comments

  • Sorry about the pictures upside down and sideways. don't know why.
    Summer
  • The user and all related content has been deleted.
  • I haunt the thrift stores and buy second-hand frames. Of course you have to throw out the ugly print in it, but the uglier the print, the cheaper the frame - and you can use the glass for a palette. I've purchased many 16x20 frames, some gold (not true gold leaf), for as little as $8. My limit is $15.
  • @billj great looking frames!
  • KevinGE; The labor is a labor of love. Equipment has been collected over 50 years, paid for by hundreds of clients, the maintenance is a necessity and common sense. Insurance ( well I'll be careful ) $25 is a lot of money to me, when the $5 is for frames up to 30" x40" + or - . And when your talking about 20 to 30 frames it`s a heck of a lot of money.
    Thanks for the input.
    marieb
  • Junebug; I haven`t tried that, but I will. Who knows maybe the ugly picture will be a Picasso. Ether way it sounds like fun, Thanks
  • Kingston; When you do this for Love and Money, " Where there's a Bill there's a way"
    Thanks
    [Deleted User]Junebugmarieb
  • Forgot to mention, really like the buck wagon.
  • I am glad you came back from your comma Bill :-) ! May I ask which kind of saw you use to do the 45degree angles? I have a non-electric mite-saw and the angles would never come out perfect and therefore I stopped doing it, but I would like to do my own frames as I am in a big danger of frame-price-comma as well... thanks.
  • Wow, those are great Bill. I love the snow scene!
  • Do you have a routing table and bits in your workshop for making these wonderful looking frames? I hope you don't mind me asking. I'm jealous.
  • Junebug; Thanks, I think it came out pretty good also.
  • Summer, EstherH' I use a Dewalt "Chop saw" / "miter saw "/"circular saw" / I`ll send you a photo of the tools I use.
    I built my Home/studio/Gallery, ( Monolithic Domes, three together) and $50,000 in tools About 15 years ago. Then a couple of yrs ago everything went down the tubes. I went from a 1,200 sq foot studio to 10' part of a sun room and part of a carport. My point is you dont need a lot of space and tools to do what I do. ( It`s much better with it ).
    Some of the tools I saved are; Table saw, Chop saw, Drill press, 16" Laguna Band saw, 24" Hawk Scroll saw, Sander, Built my own routing table, and many hand tools, including $5,000 in carving chisels and equipment.
    EstherH a hand saw miter box works if you take your time and have wood putty and Spackle on hand. If you buy a Elec Chop saw go the extra money for a 12," 80 tooth,Carbide blade, or what ever size fits the saw you get.





    If you guys have any questions or I can help you out with anything let me know. Thanks
    EstherHSummer[Deleted User]
  • Thank you Bill! You have some fine machines and tools! Too bad you don't have more room anymore but I hope the day will come again! I would like to have a saw like the yellow Dewalt, maybe smaller. I will then look out for a carbide blade! Thank you for the tip.
    @Summer For the corners I use frame clamps. They come in every size/prize and work perfectly well to hold the frame together while the glue gets hard. But I am sure Bill has a machine for that :-) ...
  • @billj Wow! I don't know where to begin. I greatly admire unusual homes, dome homes in particular. We have several in our county. I'm glad that you realized your dream building and living in one. Even though you have less space now you still have a great workshop-studio and I see now why you do such fine work. You have inspired me to begin making my own moulding. We have a router but not the table. We have some router bits but no moulding cutters. I see that you also made your own routing table. Impressive. I also notice that you have a large disk sander. I use ours for finishing medium-sized wood sculptures. If we should get stuck building the routing table I will keep in mind your offer to help. Really impressive!!!

    @EstherH Thanks. I'll keep the frame clamps in mind. I'll have to get some of those too. :)
  • Wow! And I thought painting could get to be an expensive habit. :)
  • Bill, nice work! I want to echo Junebug about checking thrift stores...picked up a beautiful oak frame 4" width approx. 28x34 with glass (which I will use for something else) for $15! Thrilled to find this and I'll collect others along the way. Even the sad commercial artwork may have a wonderful treasure surrounding it! Will post a picture of it tomorrow.
  • BTW when I enlarge the images they turn right side up!
    @EstherH Frame clamps can be mounted on the corner of a cabinet or table and use two to assemble and join, then you can also buy tinted filler (forget the name) for seams to improve appearance if needed. These are basic if you do a fair amount of your own framing-in all that free time we all have ":D
  • altair23
    estherH
    Summer
    Junebug
    Its a pleasure talking to you guys. Thanks for the kind words.
    Summer the router bits I used for these frames are simple inexpensive bits. Actually you only need one bit to make the frames I made, and thats the rounded corner of the frame, everything else can be made with/on a table saw. ( very important machine ) you can cut the miters, rabbits, concave cuts, width ( try to use stock sizes), cut offs, ect. The router table is just a box with the router mounted upside down with the bit sticking through the top, and a couple of straight edges and clamps.
    altair23; clamps work good. I lay the frames face down on the table, butt the corners together if they look good, I put two staples ( Arrow T-50 ) to hold them. I cut 1/8" plates of wood and glue them over the joint and let it dry. This works great for me. And its a very strong joint. I dont bother gluing the end grain. Gluing end grain is difficult to get a good bond, you have to wipe the ends with glue, let it dry, then glue them again and put them together.
    Let me know if I can help with anything, it will be my pleasure. Thanks.
    Summer
  • summer; This may help. (rough sketch )
    Summerjrbgolfs
  • Summer

    Here is a short video showing some of the techniques Billj was illustrating.



    BTW this guy, Matthias Wandel, is amazing, catch some of his videos if your interested in woodwork.

    Denis
    [Deleted User]Summerjrbgolfsgreendl
  • Reviewed this thread today. A lot of useful information here. @EstherH My husband just brought home the frame clamps you suggested. Really nice. @dencal Matthias Wandel is amazingly creative inventing all those jigs and modifying steel blades the way he does. @Junebug And I always enjoy a good find at a thrift shop as well as having one custom made, and even buying one from Amazon.com. @billj The only thing I haven't done is make one from scratch. My husband is talking about a "professional" workshop now. Ha ha. We will start off with the rounded corner moulding bit as you recommend. Haven't decided the size though. Our table saw will have to be anchored to the floor and then there is the routing table, the adjuster and the stand which will also have to be anchored to the floor (the table, that is). A lot to do. Thanks for the drawing explaining the table saw and router cuts. Very clear. And the park lane scene is my favorite. I like the way you color matched the frame. Thanks, everyone.
  • Billj I like that idea a lot. It's true gluing end joints is finicky and time consuming and the glue oozes out
  • Dencal; As always you come through with some good info. Thanks
    Summer; It was my pleasure, It might be an idea to wait on anchoring the table saw and router until your sure its where you want it. I would use it for a while, when i'm happy with the location I would mount it to / in a table as big as your space will allow. at least 8'x4' this will allow you to cut 4x8 sheets of plywood by yourself because of the support the table the plywood.
    The router table can be portable and clamped to the workbench when needed. I have a very nice table that I built ,4 'x 8' simple and very strong and steady, and easily taken apart and moved if necessary, I will sketch it for you if you like. The table in my last studio was 8' x 16' that shop was beautiful, grown men cried when I took down my studio. :'(;)
    altair23;Not only is the end grains "finicky" and messy it is also ineffective unless prepared properly, Thanks.
    I always say, " Measure twice and cut once"
    Being able to create something of beauty that brings pleasure to others is a blessing.
  • SummerSummer -
    edited May 2015
    @billj Thanks billj for the information. We have cut 4 x 8 sheets with what we have now but our setup isn't ideal. We have to put the cars in the yard. And, at the end of the day everything gets rolled back into its storage place. We will probably build a car port for the 2 cars and use the entire garage to expand the workshop. We would then have space for a 4 x 8 table. You say the router table can remain portable and clamp to the workbench? That sounds better than securing it to the floor with yet another table taking up space. I'd like to see the sketch of the 4 x 8 table that you built if it isn't too much trouble. Nice that it can be taken apart and moved if necessary. Here is a two-thirds view of our workspace where we would build the 4 x 8 table. The other side has floor to ceiling cabinets and shelves and the back wall has more pegboards holding yard maintenance tools. Almost everything is in miniature compared to most workshops. Do you have any suggestions???
  • Summer; That space looks good, if it was mine the cars would never see the inside of the garage." ALL" your tools can be mounted to the table and removed when not being used.
    There is plenty of room on the bottom shelve to keep the tools your not using, which saves you even more room.
    When you set up the table place it with the table saw in mine, ( you will get a table saw i'm sure B) . It should be facing the garage door so you can come right to the saw with 4 x 8 sheets to be cut. Once you get the table your not going to believe you lived without it. Heres a couple of rough sketches, one of the table and the other I use for woodcarving and as an easel sometimes. ( it is also removable )
    If you do this PLEASE CHECK ALL MY MEASUREMENTS BEFORE YOU ORDER OR CUT ANYTHING, PLEASE. Thanks this is fun.

    rgr
  • David ; Can I or you turn these photos right side up, I dont know why this happens, its embarrassing.
    Summer; Sorry about the photos.
  • billjbillj -
    edited May 2015
    David
    Summer. I got it ,---right click on the photo, click the " view image" and it fixes it. B)
  • SummerSummer -
    edited May 2015
    @billj Wow! I'm going to have so much fun with this addition to our workspace and not have to use the orbital DeWalt V5 jig hand saw to do the rough cuts on those 4 x 8 sheets anymore. We have a WorkForce stand support that's rather flimsy but it does the job with a 10-inch contractor's table saw . Almost primitive! We have other projects lined up but I can see us building this next year. Thanks so much. I love the table already. Your drawings are very clear and I'm not having any trouble understanding them. When I clicked on the pictures they turned right side up--no problem there either. I've saved the drawings to my computer and did a few printouts. They look great! I sure hope the I didn't put you to too much trouble as I can see that these drawings have been done recently. I'll keep you posted when we get underway and post the final results. Thank you, again, very much. <3
  • FWIW, I thought this was awesome and easy, tried it, liked it: www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2trWWHH9dg
    billj
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