Hi everyone! I am a beginner who has maintained an on-again, off-again status while raising my kids. Things always got in the way and interruptions always won. Now the kids are grown and I am so ready! I'm happy to see Mark's videos, as the classes I've taken seem to be of the "non-instructive" instruction genre. Valuable to a point but somewhat frustrating.
The drawing I've attached is an exercise from Bert Dodson's drawing book. My current painting instructor says that the rendering is very " two dimensional" and nothing like what painting is like. Sure enough I find that with my first assignment (copying a John Singer Sargent portrait) I am far too caught up in blending and shaping with tints and shades than putting the paint on the canvas loosely. I would love to see some exercises that would help me to loosen up when starting a painting.
Any ideas?
Eliza
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Comments
-Scot White
I agree with Kingston about charcoal and stick pastels. They're great to use in life drawing - great for fast, spontaneous, fluid lines. I watched how Mark filled in his silver cup painting from dark to light - very different from filling in the lines of a drawing. It's definitely a whole different thought process!
Eliza
Blending is probably one of the most common topics on this forum and there are many good discussions on it. But the point is not to avoid blending at all costs, its for us students to avoid the temptation to blend as we lay in the colors in an attempt to "fix" something that doesn't look right.
Martin
The blending to avoid is smoothing out surfaces in an attempt to create volume and smooth transitions between colors of different value. Rookie mistake. If your colors (and more importantly) values are correct, much of the perceived need for blending is no longer required. Follow the advice above and Mark's methods (to the letter) and just proceed patiently. You will be pleasantly surprised at the results given the fact that you can already draw. Give the loose painterly thing time (look at Sargents prolific number of paintings - experience). Walk before you run, and most importantly - have fun.
James
Welcome to the DMP Forum.
You asked The placement of the correct value in the right place will allow the viewer to optically blend at a distance from the painting. Sargent is a master of this technique. Close up you see blobs of color, at a distance a detailed realistic portrait.
Working in graphite or charcoal blending is a must to graduate the rounded shapes with shades of gray being the only variable.
Denis
Oh - additionally, I was looking at a book on painting that talks about how to lay out a thin under painting, though this (according to the book) is not a popular way to start any more. It says thin, water-based paint can help to define highlighted and shaded areas of the figure. Any comments?
So much to learn!!
Check out Mark's portrait video. He places stepped values to create form and volume.
Under painting see:
http://forum.drawmixpaint.com/discussion/comment/20699/#Comment_20699
Denis
Yes! Or any of his free videos or sample clips.
I mentioned optical blending by the viewer. This is a good illustration:
Instructions: appreciate the mosaic simplicity of the left view and the beautiful detail of the Mona Lisa. Now avert your eyes and walk to the other side of the room and look back at that simple mosaic.
The right values does most of the heavy lifting in creating form and structure.
The details are largely cosmetic additions to emphasize focal points and form the light flow.
A second powerful example is an artwork in the cafe of my local art gallery.
Open these up by clicking on them. Such stunning shaded subtlety with a few coffee cups. What magic.
Denis
Thanks. Yes there is a chuck close classic in the Australian NGA. I make a pilgrimage every couple of years to see it. I even painted a Monet and went to Melbourne to see his work. Heck on my wall is a study of Elvis Presley (2300 dots) done by Denise Landis http://deniselandisworks.wordpress.com/tag/pointillism/
Denis
I can see in your drawing that you have a good understanding about what the shapes of a face should look like, where they should be placed and you have good proportion.
Your drawing looks " two dimensional " because there aren't enough value transitions from light to dark areas. I see two, perhaps three value steps at the most but in order to convey the illusion of volume you will need at least 5 steps, or as many as it takes in my own opinion; to successfully render the convexities of the face in this case.
Being able to do (B) will help you a lot when painting and if you've noticed all the little rectangles are just like dabs of paint that are right next to each other creating a blended effect without any blending whatsoever.
In his paintings Sargent seems to use just a couple of value steps in some areas and in areas like the face he seems to have more, if not the same amount of values steps; than the ones in example (B).
So in short :-B the answer to your question, "So should I understand that when one is painting a shaded area (like under a chin) for example, it is done by stroking graduated values next to each other?" is YES
Hope this helps
Have fun and post some drawings...
I actually felt a bit "ripped off" with that class. I've learned more from watching internet videos for free than what I did with the $200/4 class course I took. The good thing about the class was that it gave me a challenge I've been working on all summer (even after the class was over) when I have blocks of free time. I'm definitely learning about lots of things: mixing colors and values, painting volumes, brush techniques, etc. But at this point I'm still practicing with facial features on scraps of canvas and not yet committing to the sketch I've drawn on the "official" canvas quite yet.
Mark: I do have a problem however, with your portrait painting video. The dark rug under your glass palette makes it impossible to see the darker colors you are starting out with in the mixing section. I'd really like to be able to see that better.
Also: with the assignment I have of copying the Sargent portrait, each print I have to copy from, whether it comes from a book or a computer printout, offers a different spin on flesh colors; one pinker, one yellower, one a mixture of pinks and yellows. Am I wasting my time trying to "get it right"? What should I be aiming for in terms of completing this project?
Eliza