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Arches Oil Painting Paper

I thought this would be a great alternative surface for people who travel. Check out the video for information:



  • Thanks TJS

    Is this stretchable material - doesn't look like it so it would have to be glued or hot mounted on a support. Nonetheless a very versatile product, expanding the degrees of freedom at the outset. I would have less of a struggle throwing a paper disaster in the bin. Could be gesso'd over I suppose? Any indication of cost or choices of smoothness or toothyness (brand new word).


  • tjstjs -
    edited June 2013
    You just mount it the same way you do a watercolor, pastel or drawing for framing. Much more versatile for framing than oil on canvas. Cost? Cheap! You can buy it in pad form which would be great for travel or plein air for about $10.00 (12x9) or a roll 51 inches by 10 yards for around $150.00

    Toothyness? :) This gal just tried it and has some comments on her blog and said it didn't have as much tooth as she was use too. She says it's more absorbent than she likes but that's easy to resolve. Just rub on a tiny bit of oil like walnut oil onto the surface and let it dry. I once ordered a cheap gesso that was way to absorbent. Works great now as long as I rub some oil on the surface after the gesso is dry. Actually makes for a really nice painting surface for oils.[graham walnut oil]&wmcid=adwords&cid=psgex08161186&gclid=COf474jez7cCFep7Qgod_18AYA
  • I use paper like this (from Canson) for quick oil sketches. I assumed it wasn't archival and have been treating those paintings very much as learning studies (which they are). The paper is about the same price as oil painting canvass boards but stores more easily. I'm too inexperienced to comment about absorbency or tooth, I'm afraid, but it's been great for me to work on for these little learning sketches.
  • edited June 2013
    tjs, If the paper is stained first, such as Mark and other painters recommend doing with primed canvas, would the oil still be needed?
  • tjs, If the paper is stained first, such as Mark and other painters recommend doing with primed canvas, would the oil still be needed?

    I wouldn't if you are using the quick dry white+burnt umber stain. I'm always running out of the quick dry white and have just used some walnut oil+burnt umber stain(wash). It works for me. But I do prefer the quick dry white.

  • edited June 2013
    This is really cool. I like the demo. If you wish to keep it archival safe. You can use non-toxic by DecoArt Traditions Multi Purpose Sealer. It's a high grade sealer. Shake well, and apply two even coats front and back. Keeps the surface flexible, but also make it solid somewhat. Good stuff.
    It will also keep the paint from sinking into the paper. You can Gesso right after the sealer is dry. The sealer has a good tooth, which means you can oil prime if you like. I used it on Canson paper when I did oils studies. When dry, put a mat board frame on top, then moved the piece into a desired glass frame. :)
  • Terrific info Cyn!!! :-c
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