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Can a natural color be replaced by a HUE?

Hello everyone.
I want to ask if I can replace the cadmium yellow with natural pigment (py35) by the HUE version (py3pw6). It's not exactly a matter of price (although I would also like to be able to pay less, of course), but the store where I usually buy only has the 20ml HUE color tubes at the moment. Visually, they look identical

Thank you all!
Ps.: sorry for my english 


  • It will work but you'll need more of the hue in mixes to get the colors you want.
  • dencaldencal -
    edited September 2018

    Hues being combinations of pigments to obtain a color give problematic outcomes when mixing with other colors. Additionally, you may lose the coverage power because the hue lacks the cadmium pigment.
    Another downside is that less intense pigments in hues require a lot more of the product to achieve a value.

    This hue is hansa yellow and titanium white. Hansa yellow has a tendency in some mediums to darken, fade and shift towards brown.

    Best advice is to give it a try. It may be just what you need.


  • Mixes tend to be impacted with mixed pigments and may not produce the desired results. If a yellow has white mixed in it then mixing with another color will shift it towards blueish tint. Whereas a pure cadmium will produce an extraordinary result. Also, it would need a lot of paint to achieve desired colors. I recently used a cheaper hue orange in place of cad orange. Whenever, I used it to de-saturate a blue, it would turn the mix green due to yellow mixed in that hue color. So, I shifted to cad orange.

    My suggestion is that use these student/hue colors for your studies etc as they are cheap and go for pure colors for final paintings.
  • Thanks for the alert, BOB73. I'll keep an eye on that. In fact, if I need to use more paint I will spend more material and time.

    Thank you, Dencal and Gustav. I did not intend to use HUE colors in more important works, it is only during the studies, as Gustav suggested. But my concern is to end up adding unnecessary problems to the process, and end up with a "trained" eye for pigments that I will not use later. If this is the case, I'd rather wait and buy my real pigment oils on the web.

    However, I bought a tube of yellow HUE to compare with the actual pigment, the photos are below. In the first image we have the colors, side by side, and then the blends made with the colors we use in the DMP (in the last image I just increased the brightness for the colors to be more visible), but without using any medium. Their brand is Corfix, a Brazilian company that is not as good as WN but produces a material of acceptable quality. The other colors are not HUE, they use real pigment. I tried to be as exact as possible in the quantities, and frankly I did not notice significant differences in tonalities.

    However, it seems that mixing with HUE was a bit more time-consuming. It's as if true yellow flows better, and that pleases me. In addition, I have not tested with variations where yellow is mixed in large or small quantities with the other colors, and I do not know if they would remain the same, in addition to the problem of covering power being smaller, as mentioned by Dencal.
  • Nei_P_J

    Your test shows the hue to be almost the same as the single pigment in mixing behaviour.
    One of the acid tests is to mix yellow with black to obtain a green. The hue containing white is likely to produce a milky grey green, the single pigment will produce a clean green.


  • But it seems that your hue yellow is producing good mixes strangely! Only other thing to see is the covering power. If that is reasonable then this is like a cheaper alternative for you.
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