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Liquin ... multiple layers

Hi all.
I was searching for this quite a long time but never found a satisfying answer.
IF I intended to use liquin (I tried on a test painting and loved it) and paint several layers: do I have to add oil just like I would normally do? Liquin plus 1 part oil, liquin plus 2 parts oil et cetera? When I'm painting on my 6th layer and added a drop more linseed for each one, do I have to add further oil when using liquin?
It's a mystery to me. Some say liquin avoids cracking and doesn't need additional linseed, but how do I handle this information? Can you trust the internet?

Thanks in advance!
Stefan

Comments

  • Stephan

    I know liquin to be used with tube paint straight. I have used it with SDM mixed paint, for glazing and as a protective seal coating, rather like a varnish. I find it adaptable and convenient if I need next day dry stuff.

    Here is a piece of advice on this score I read on Wet Canvas quoting W&N:

    "You can thin Liquin with solvent, we can’t 100% guarantee the results without knowing the exact brand/medium but in theory there should be no issue. Yes, Liquin can be mixed with Linseed oil, when you mix it with oil colour you are effectively mixing it with linseed oil for most colours anyway. To ensure the oil painting rules are followed always ensure that there is more medium/oil in each successive layer."
    And that is what I am doing now. Also using stand oil instead of normal Linseed. And it seems to work fine.:thumbsup: That is nice, fluid stuff, not too tacky and still quite fast...

    Denis


  • I used to paint with nothing but Liquin, but over the years, I have morphed to using a medium made of one ounce each of OMS and linseed oil, and adding about 20 drops of Liquin, more or less.  But, I paint portraits mostly and use cremnitz (lead) white exclusively.  When painting portraits, the white gets into almost all flesh tones, and lead white is a very fast dryer.   I don't like titanium white because it's too "chalky," and Zinc is notorious for cracking.
  • stefanstefan -
    edited March 2017
    ah ok.
    "You can thin Liquin with solvent, we can’t 100% guarantee the results without knowing the exact brand/medium" ... ha. I prepare my colors with Mark's recipe, so with quite a lot of mediums so to say. I always buy the old holland oils wich are really loaded with pigment, so thats ok. But adding Liquin could be a bit tricky then.

    Otherwise i COULD use the paints for glazing right out of the tube (I always have some unmixed ones at hand), but that seems a bit risky, too, cause it would be a completely different type of mixture on top.

    Simply mixing a lot more linseed instead of Liquin into my colors to increase transparency doesn't work at all because it won't "stick" to the canvas. Just like painting oil on glass.

    To me it seems like I can only take the risk and add liquin (plus extra linseed if needed). It's obviously an issue to work with Mark's receipe if you like to glaze at later stages.

    Oh, by the way ... I really don't care about the drying times. 
  • Stefan

    Say you have a two teaspoon puddle of pigment on the palette, anywhere from one or two drops to about a max of 10% liquin is fine. That is 0.05 mls to 2.00 mls.

    Glazing cannot be done out of a tube with straight paint. The aim is to gradually shift hue, value or temperature with multiple transparent layers. A touch of pigment in a brush dab of liquin is enough to cover a largish area, say 5x3 cms. Glazing is flexible, adaptable and forgiving. Can be wiped off. Each glaze layer needs to dry.

    I have never needed to thin Liquin. Buy Fine Detail Liquin if you need to.

    Curiously, if your paint is skating on the canvas you need a light coat of linseed oil wiped over the area before painting. Go figure. If your problem persists moisten the brush with linseed or medium before painting.

    Never had a problem using a correction glaze or a transparent glaze on a Carder Method painting. I don't glaze thick pigment layers, nor do I glaze wet paint.

    Denis

  • dencaldencal -
    edited March 2017
    Stefan

    Here is more than you want to know about Liquin.


    Denis

  • Thanks Denis. A lot to read.
    You got me wrong on the out-of-the-tube thing. I intended to mix liquin and eventually some linseed into the tube-color. But the exception would be that I don't use the Carder-Mixture before.

    I have the "original liquin" here. Do you recommend using "fine detail liquin" instead for glazing?

    I'll try some things today.
  • Stefan

    I have a couple of small bottles of Fine Detail Liquin (FDL) but I ain't had the need to use them yet.
    Either Liquin works fine, but if you want a thinner consistency for detailed work the FDL means you don't need to add solvents or linseed. Liquin being a heat modified soya oil adheres to the fat over lean rule as you progressively add more.

    Denis

  • Thanks for the read Denis.

    Interesting to hear that soybean oil dries to a more flexible state than linseed oil. I've wondered before if a small amount of a semi-drying oil like this added to linseed oil would add a little flexibility to the final paint and make it more resistant to cracks.
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