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Olympus 40 megapixel sensor? Which one?

In the info Dencal was kind enough to send me the writer mentioned that some Olympus 4/3 camera's have a sensor that can be adjusted to shoot true 40 megapixel images. Does that include the OM-D E-M10  recommended by David Carder as a low budget starting point?  


  • The feature you're referring to (available in a few cameras including the OM-D E-M5 Mk.II) is not "true" 40 megapixels. It's a very cool feature, but it has some major limitations. It works by shifting the sensor very slightly (less than one pixel on the sensor) in a few directions and taking a shot after each movement.

    I have not had the opportunity to try this out, but logically, it's not going to work for moving subjects. This means landscapes with anything moving (leaves swaying in the breeze), or photographs of people (so no portraits), or obviously any scene with significant movement. And it's only going to work on a tripod.

    What it will work for: still lifes, product images, landscapes without movement, photos of paintings, etc.

    If you really want megapixels, you don't want a micro 4/3 camera. I recommend a micro 4/3 camera because of other advantages. Megapixels are generally not as important as you'd think. The disadvantages of lower resolutions can generally be compensated for. For example, when Mark takes photos for full-length portraits, he does take a full-length shot for reference (and to get the camera positioned correctly, which determines perspective), but then he zooms in (without moving the camera!) and gets many photos of the head, the hands, and other important areas (or even the entire subject, block by block). As long as the camera remains in the original position, perspective is maintained and you've got everything you need to work from.

    There's more to full-length portraits so it's not recommended for beginners, but in short, I would not worry too much about megapixels. That being said, the E-M5 Mk.II is a great camera, and I'm not saying the 40-megapixel sensor-shift feature thing wouldn't ever be useful, because I would love to have it for taking photos of large paintings for example! I would only use it if the output was raw, though, not JPEG… and I'm not sure if that's an option since the whole procedure requires some in-camera processing.
  • David, thanks so much for the comprehensive answers you have taken valuable time to give.
    I'm not new to oil painting or Adobe's paint and draw programs or wide format ink jet printing.
    BUT I am new to photography and I feel I'm on a fast learning curve with your help and the help of other kind folks on this forum.
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