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Question about linen

I have a question about the Claessens doubled primed linen. Is it 2 coats of primer or primed on both sides? Is it ready to paint on or is additional priming needed? I am thinking it's 2 coats on one side. It may be a dumb question but the dumbest questions are the ones never asked.

Comments

  • newb

    According to http://www.claessenscanvas.com/en/products/types-of-canvas


    Types of canvas



    Three types, three treatments

    Painters work with a variety of types of paint. Each type of paint requires a specific coating. There are three types of canvas. An oil canvas is intended solely for oil paint. Absorbent canvases are intended for tempera. Universal canvases are suitable for both oil paint and acrylic paint.
    Each type of artist’s canvas is given a specific treatment after glueing.

    Oil canvas

    For an ‘oil canvas’, zinc white is used as the primer, bound with linseed oil. After that the canvas is put into a drying room for three days where it air-dries naturally. After that, we sand the canvas again and apply a coating layer based on titanium white. The canvas then has to go back into the drying room for a further ten days.

    Absorbent canvases

    ‘Absorbent canvases’ are given two primer layers of chalk, bound with glue based on rabbit skins. Because this primer is water based, these canvases can be dried in the dry-air oven, where the water can evaporate more quickly.

    Universal canvases

    ‘Universal canvases’ undergo the same treatment as the absorbent canvases, but the two primer layers are titanium white based.

    Reference numbers

    Our reference numbers are prefixed with a number that specifies the treatment. If these canvases are untreated they carry the number 0 (e.g. 066), universal canvases carry the number 1 (e.g. 166) and absorbent
    canvases the number 2 (e.g. 266). Oil canvases, in contrast, carry no prefix number (e.g. 66).

    Denis
  • Maybe I should have asked the question differently. Does anybody that uses the double primed 13 put additional ground on or do you go straight to toning the canvas?
  • They sell double and single primed. One side of the canvas is raw linen, as it should be; the other side has glue sizing (it coats the linen fibers so the oil does not make contact with the raw linen), and then one or two coats of foundation white oil paint on top of that.

    You can paint on that directly with no further prep. But I use the stain color, which has a slightly higher oil percentage than the foundation white but also a much lower oil percentage than regular artist color oil paint. I only do this because I want the color of the stain.
  • Thank you @Mark_Carder. That's what I wanted to know. I have several cheap stretched canvases I want to use up and then I want to graduate to the linen. Hopefully by that time my artwork will have improved. I want to faithfully follow your system like I did in my first effort. To date it has been my best result. I am building an inventory of brushes and paints now and want to be prepared for when I buy the linen. Thankfully I am already stocked up on Delq and clove oil. I am hoping your Geneva paints will be available buy the time I run out of that.

    Your method must be catching on as both Blick and Jerrys art o rama are sold out of Claessens 13 oil primed linen rolls (the small rolls at Jerrys). :)
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